A Port Meadow circular walk to Godstow and Binsey

Port Meadow is the big open space on Oxford's north-west edge, and most of us know the bit nearest Jericho. This loop takes in all of it: north across the open grass to Wolvercote and Godstow, then back down the far bank of the Thames on the Thames Path, with a detour to Binsey's little church. It is level throughout and good in every season, as long as you know what winter does to it.

Why Port Meadow is worth knowing

According to Oxford City Council, the Freemen of Oxford's right to graze animals here free of charge goes back to the Domesday Book, and the commoners of Wolvercote have held grazing rights since the 16th century. Port Meadow and Wolvercote Common, its northern continuation beyond the Shiplake Ditch, together form a Site of Special Scientific Interest and a Scheduled Ancient Monument.

The route

Start at the Walton Well Road entrance at the southern end of the meadow.

1. From the Walton Well Road gate, head north across the meadow with the river away to your left. Paths across the grass can be faint.
2. Continue north on to Wolvercote Common and make for the Godstow Road gate and car park at the northern end, where there are toilets.
3. Turn left (west) along Godstow Road, using the pavement, and cross the bridge over Wolvercote Mill Stream. The Trout Inn is just ahead beside the river, with the Godstow road bridges right beside it.
4. Cross the two road bridges, about 25 metres apart. Just beyond them, leave the road on the left for the ruins of Godstow Abbey, then carry on south beside the river to Godstow Lock, a short way downstream.
5. From the lock, follow the Thames Path south along the west bank, with Port Meadow across the water to your left. This open stretch is a little over a mile.
6. Near Binsey, look for the sign for The Perch, which sits a short path back from the river.
7. For Binsey church, walk out to Binsey Lane and follow it north to St Margaret's at its end, about half a mile, then return the same way.
8. Return to the riverside and continue south past Medley Sailing Club and Bossom's Boatyard to the arched Medley footbridge.
9. Cross the footbridge on to Fiddler's Island, then the flat Bailey bridge over Castle Mill Stream on to Port Meadow, and head east to the Walton Well Road gate.

By our reckoning from published route distances, the loop is roughly 4 miles, or nearer 5 with the Binsey detour. Allow two to two and a half hours of walking, plus pub stops. From Jericho, the council says it is just under ten minutes up the Oxford Canal towpath, then a few minutes more to the meadow gate.

Godstow, the abbey and the lock

Historic England records that the Benedictine nunnery at Godstow was probably founded in 1133. After the Dissolution its buildings became a house, which was burnt in 1645 during the Civil War and later mostly demolished. What survives are stretches of the precinct walls and a small two-storey chapel in one corner, which still stands to roof height.

The Trout is a Grade II listed inn, mostly 17th century, and features in the Inspector Morse television series. Oxford City Council's Thames walking page notes that the nunnery is close to where Lewis Carroll found the inspiration for Alice's Adventures in Wonderland.

Binsey: St Margaret's and the treacle well

St Margaret's Church stands at the end of the lane, some distance north of Binsey's houses. The parish says it occupies the site of a Saxon church, with Norman work around the south door. In the churchyard, just west of the church, is St Margaret's Well. Legend links it to St Frideswide. The parish explains that "treacle" once meant a healing fluid, and that Lewis Carroll used the idea for the treacle well in Alice. The church is Grade I listed and the well Grade II. If you want to see inside the church, check with the parish before you go.

The Perch is a Grade II listed, partly thatched building that was badly damaged by fire in 2007 and reopened in 2008.

Underfoot, flooding and livestock

• Surfaces: expect grass, gravel tracks and earth paths. The council says the riverside path towards Wolvercote is rural and can be muddy in winter.
• The muddiest part: a Visit Thames route guide singles out the riverside field on the approach to Godstow Lock as the wettest and muddiest section, and notes that cattle often graze there.
• Winter flooding: the meadow is a working floodplain, and the council warns that its southern part is flooded for up to ten months of the year. Walking guides also note that the riverside path between The Perch and Godstow can be flooded and impassable. The National Trail advises checking Environment Agency flood warnings before a winter walk and never walking through floodwater. If the meadow is flooded, the canal towpath between Jericho and Wolvercote is a drier alternative.
• Livestock: cattle and horses graze the meadow and common, and geese and other wildfowl are common. The council asks walkers to keep dogs under control because of the animals, and on a lead during bird nesting season from March to July. Expect churned mud where cattle gather by gates, give them plenty of room, and close any gate you open.
• The river: the bank is open, and the council does not advise swimming. It is not a designated bathing area.

Getting there and practical notes

• Parking: Oxford City Council runs car parks at both ends of the meadow: Walton Well Road (OX2 6ED) in the south and Godstow Road (OX2 8PU) in the north. Charges apply at both, and Godstow Road is cashless. Walton Well Road is much the smaller of the two.
• By bus: Oxford Bus Company runs a service from the city centre to Wolvercote along Woodstock Road. Start from the Godstow Road end.
• Refreshments: The Perch and The Trout are on the route, The Plough, Wolvercote is close to the common, and The Anchor is near the canal at the Jericho end. Check opening times before you travel, and book at busy times.
• Toilets: at the Godstow Road car park.

For more routes, groups and walking resources around the city, see our walking routes directory.

Cover photo: the Thames and Port Meadow from Godstow Lock, by AstacopsisGouldi, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.